Seleona
Hunter
Selesitino
First Semester
Finished Pieces
Unit 1 - 3 Projects
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Finished Piece #1
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I have always been an artists that has obsessed over perfection when it comes to details especially proportion. However, for this piece I was actually inspired by something my a classmate of mine Colleen Meratta said. Although, I can't remember he exact words she said something along the lines of "I love it when these faces are quirky , because it makes them more interesting and unique." So when I approached this piece instead of working out how to making every detail perfect, I just let the odd malformations in the face manifest with out trying to "fix" them. For this piece I ended up using 6-12 clay because it has more grit and structural integrity, so it would be able to hold its shape when I would remove and apply new pieces of clay to my piece. Throughout the process of making this piece I had trouble primarily with the eyes in trying to figure out how to make a proper eyelid and right size for the eyeball that would fall into the eye socket. Whenever I would try to, the initial application of the coil above and below the eye was easy enough, however smoothing the eyelid so that it would hug the iris without damaging the natural edge the clay gave to the eyelid was challenging, since I was still figuring out what tools were best for smoothing. Another challenge I ran into was the mouth, I was unsure on how to go about it initially, so I started off by creating a slit where I wanted the mouth to be and then added coils around it in order to build up the lips. I had tried to see if I could render an open mouth, but I found it difficult and wasn't fond of the expression when the mouth was open, so once I got the basic structure of the lips I pressed them together to create the closed expression you see in the piece. If I were to do this piece over again, I would use a photo reference in order to learn more techniques on how to create more detailed eyes and lips. I would also look at animated characters, and try to figure out what unrealistic details such as exadurated cheek bones or enlarged ears that I could add in order to practice a more unconventional style instead of my perfectionistic photorealistic style I try to replicate in most of the art mediums I practice.
Finished Piece #2
I have always worked with clay ever since I was little. However, it had been some years since I had done it, so for my first detail oriented piece I wanted to try something more on the simple side it terms of construction. The design of this piece was inspired by the tattoo design from an accomplished tattoo artist Miryam Lumpini, who's concept and color designs are femnominal. The design she made that inspired this piece was a Bull skull with a owl eye in a geometric shape in the center. I followed the basic idea, by creating a cow skull and placing an eye in the center of two geometric shapes. However, in order to make it my piece and not just a copy, I changed the color pallet, simplified the line work to make it less complex, and included some other shapes as well. I chose to use low fire white clay (cones 06/05) for this piece because I wanted the piece to have a white background and by using this clay body that fires white I wouldn't need to use as much glaze. In terms of the design, I wanted to focus on like work, instead of just blocking out large sections of color. I believed it would give my piece a unique character, and be more interesting as well. The challenges I faced while making this piece was, the fact that I made it so small. It is only about 2 inches in length and one in width, so I had to be very attentive while laying down the line work because descrepenies with lines are always noticeable, but on a small piece since there isn't much serface area to begin with, the mystakes would Stand out even more than usual. It was also challenging to get the pattern I sketched on paper onto the clay itself. I used a ball point tool to trace it into the clay so it wouldn't puncture the paper or the clay while I traced. However, I made the mistake of going back over the dull lines with the same tool only this time making the grooves deeper. This made it harder for me to get consistent lines into the piece when I began to paint it with underglaze. This made it so I had to do a lot of extra work to help smooth the valleys of the trace marks I made since the little pieces of clay that came off on the sides kept sticking to the paint and making the lines I painted jagged. I found that Using, the underglaze was also very effective in helping me to create the intricate patterns I made in this piece and maintain them after being fired. Because underglaze doesn't have any glass in its contents the patterns I created with them did not bleed into each other when they are fired. Also, using the low fire white clay worked out well, since it has little grain and is a more smooth but durable clay, so it held up well and didn't easily fall apart despite not having as much structural durability as the 6-12. If I redid this piece, I would have left the soft imprints of the design I made initially as the base that I could follow as I begin to paint, instead of going back over and creating those valleys. I also would be sure to add more layers of underglaze, so that the colors would be more solid and bold and not as see through.
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Finished Piece #3
I have always been obsessed with miniature operable objects especially antique mixture tea sets. I have been collecting these sets for a while, but have always had trouble finding ones that were whole sets, or at least had the tea pot. This little conflict I ran into while collecting is what inspired me to begin creating my own tea sets. I wanted to first start out with the tea pot before attempting any of the other elements such as the saucers, the cups, the plates, and the serving platter and I was inspired to make a mini tea set of my own since I couldn't find whole already made tea sets. The most challenging part of making this piece was figuring out how to make a sphirical hollow chamber on such a small scale. Initially I thought I could roll a small ball of clay, cut it in half and then slip and score them together. However, this idea proved insufficient since I wanted to walls to be fairly thin but the sphere to be small, and using this technique made it hard to maintain the spherical shape without it collapsing at the seam. Since the amount of clay left after I carved both halves of the sphere out were so thin and not structurally durable. However, thanks to a video my instructor Mrs. Thompson showed us on how to make pinch pots. In this video it showed how we could make a pitch pot by taking a round ball of clay, stkingin your finger about halfway into in and then pinch it, moving in a circular motion in order to maintain a consistent thickness throughout the piece as they began to form the pot. The challenge I was facing was how to create even edges on a small scale, and this video showed me a technique that could achieve that. Therefore, I took this technique and applied it to my piece. First I rolled out a small sphere but made it a bit smaller than the size I wanted the tea pot to be, since as I would begin to press on the inside and outside of the piece to hollow it out, the piece would expand. Though, instead of using my finger to pint and hollow out the pot, I used a ball point sculpting tool, since it was rounded like a finger and would be able to do the same job only on a smaller scale. This idea ended up working out very well, and I was able to successfully hollow out a pot that was under an inch in diameter. Another problem I ran into was how to make an operable spout. Though I soon figured out that by making a thick enough spout base to attach to the allowed out sphere, I could take a needle took and stir it strait trough the spout an into the open cavity inside the sphere. Then I would take additional clay and shape the spout to look cured, even though in reality this isn't the case. What worked out the best in this piece was the painting. To decorate my mianture pots I used underglaze, since it doesn't contain glass and would be able to maintain the fragile patterns I wanted to paint. The decision to use clear glass in to finish off the project, worked out great since it made my piece water proof and also gave it a nice finish. I chose to use low fire white clay (cone 06/05) because it fired white, because I wanted to have a white base, and by using low fire white clay, I didn't have to use more glaze. If I were to redue these pieces, I would have made sure to let my clay dry to leather hard, after I have made sure that the shape is what I want. Though I am happy with how my white Tea Pot came out, I realized I had not properly pressed in the sides so that the pot wouldn't be slightly lopsided as it turned out to be.
Finished Piece #4
I was inspired to create this piece because of my father and his love and connection to the humpback whales here in our marine ecosystem. My dad used to always walk along the Santa Cruz coast, in the morning before he would head in for work and play his jambe while he watched the ocean and while the whales would always come and breach in front of him. I decided to use low fire white for this piece, so that the colors I painted onto it would be bright and vibrant. I also chose to use low fire white (cone 06-05) because it has very little grit, and has a smooth surface that is much easier to paint detailed designs on, than the very gritty 6-12 clay. While making this piece, I initially had some trouble trying to attach the waves that would lift off of the main canvas because the clay would get really stiff by the time I would try to slip and score it to the surface of the base. However, this was remedied easily when I found that my taking just enough water to cover the surface of the piece, I can gently smooth away the cracks without taking away too much material along with it. I found that using the underglaze worked wonderfully in creating the intricate pattern was able to achieve in this piece, especially for the simplified barnacle pattern I created by layering the yellow and red underglaze. I also figured out that my adding water to the underglaze to thin it a bit, allowed it to become transparent enough to still be able to see the patterns I created on the whale. This is how I was able to create a shadow effect on the back of the whale to help add to the almost 3D effect. If I were to recreate this piece I would have painted the sides as well as the back of the piece, because I didn't and I found that it leaves an unfinished impression. Also, I would have chosen to incorporate an element in the sky, just to add depth and another layer of interest to this piece as well.
Finished Piece #5
I was inspired to make this octopus for my mother as a gift for her birthday, because this octopus is one of her spirit guides whom she needed a representative figure of for her alter. I used low fire white clay (cone 06/05) for this piece, because this clay had a smooth texture and would be able to provide a smooth canvas for the underglaze I planned to use to paint on the octopuses details. Going into this piece the most challenging aspect of creating this was trying to sculpt, reinforce, and maintain the 8 arms. At first I had the idea of sculpting the the head of the octopus since it would be the main structural support. I then tried to make the arms by rolling out thing strips of clay and cris crossing them like a star. I would then attach the head to the center of the star and begin to shape the octopus. However, I found that this method was not structurally sound, since as I started to score and slip the arms to the head, were the arms connected was getting thinner, and the arms were breaking off every time I tried to shift the piece to atatch it better. In short, only of few of the arms actually attached with this technique, so I switched gears and salvadged the arms that did fall off and instead of trying to reconnect them to the center, I attached them directly to the octopuses main body instead. This ended up working very well, and for the most part, during the construction of the octopus, the main attachment points held up. Though I also had to deal with how fragile the arms were themselves because of how thin they were since I had made this octopus very small, only about 2.5 inches in length. While painting I had to pay careful attention to where my brush was because just a small movement would crack and arm and I would have to go back in with slip and a brush to reinforce it again. However, this made it so I would have to repaint the whole arm since a lot of the paint would get dislplaced during the reatachment procedure. However, what worked out the best in this piece was the Scrafito technique I implemented using underglaze, to create the octopuses biserial (suckers). I painted on a decent layer of aqua blue, then a thick layer of white, and a mix of blues, and purple for the surface layers. This made it so that when I when back in with a needle tool, and scraped away at the blue underglaze on the top I exposed the white underneath, creating the appropriate sucker pattern I was able to create. Using underglaze was another plus, because since the colors didn't bleed into each other, I was able to lightly brush layers of dark purple over the surface layer of blue to create the multicolored skin of the octopus, which I feel came out very well. If I were to do this piece again, I would try to use a different kind of clay body, one that would be able to retain more moisture and not dry so fast, while I am arranging the position of the arms. I would also try to add more texture to the skin by using an compress with a pattern to help give the octopus more character.
Finished Piece #6
I was inspired to create this piece because of the little monster a third grader in our SLV elementary school community created. I decided to use low fire white for this piece, so that the colors I painted onto it would be bright and vibrant like the watercolor piece made by the third grader. I also chose to use low fire white (cone 06-05) because it has very little grit, and has a smooth surface that is much easier to paint detailed designs on, than the very gritty 6-12 clay. While making this piece, I initially had some trouble attaching the lolly pop stick to the lollypop itself because it was such a small and delicate piece of clay. Though I figured out that by waiting until the little piece of clay was leather hard, that it was durable enough to withstand scoring and slipping so after a couple tries it was able to adhere nicely to the lollypop. To match the design of the monster in the painting as much as possible I found that using the underglaze worked wonderfully since I was able to easily block out the little section of color, and not worry about them bleeding into each other. Also, I decided to use a taco lemon yellow glaze that fires at cone 06/05 for the main body of this piece, because it was a similar color and vibrance to the water color piece I was using as a guide. I was worried that this glaze would bleed over the underglaze but luckily it didn't and instead gave the piece a beautiful and glossy yellow finish. I also used clear glaze (cone 06/05) to add a finishing shine to the underglaze I had painted before so that the piece had a more finished look. If I were to recreate this piece I would have chosen not to outline the rim of the eye with that black underglaze. I feel that the back outline, unnecessarily breaks the piece up in a harsh manner and therefore, it I were to recreate this piece, I would leave that detail out. Also in order to get more of a contrast between rose cheeks and the red of the ears, I would have used a more pink underglaze. I feel that if I had added another warm color like this it would have made the piece more interesting, and would have made the cheeks stand out more in comparison to the ears.
Second Semester
Finished Piece # 1
I was inspired to create this piece because of the author of the children's' book " The Girl Who Loved Wild Horses," by Paul Goble for my Master work. I planned to make the two main characters of this story as 3D figurines for my project ( the girl, and the Stailon). I chose to use low fire white clay because it has a smooth finish, with little grit, which made it a nice surface to use underglaze on. And because it was dense enough to hold its shape. I had planned to use both underglaze and Clear glaze, but in the end I could only use underglaze. Because, while I was making both figurines, I realized that the surface area of the hooves and the girls feet were too small to be balanced on the stilts in the kiln. And without these the piece would melt permanently onto the kilns surface. But this would only be the case if I chose to use Clear glaze as well. Since underglaze lacks any glass content, there was no need to stilt the pieces, so I only ended up using underglaze. I ran into a lot of challenges for both these figurines. To start, the main challenge for the horse was its legs. I already knew from the start that this would be tricky, since I wasn't just trying to make the figurines as close to the original artists drawing as much as possible, but I was also trying to make the horse as realistically proportional as possible. Which meant I had to keep the legs pretty thin. My initial plan, that I ended up following was to just eyeball the proportions for the horse, and construct it as proportionally as possilble, but on a much smaller scale. I chose to make the horse small, not just to challenge myself, but also because it helped to counter act the problem I knew I was gonna run into with the thin legs. Which was figuring out how to support a large body mass on four thin legs. So I figured by reducing the size of the horse overall, would reduce the amount of strain on the legs since there is less to hold up overall. This did help. However, I found that the initial leg thickness I had decided on, was too fragile to hold up the weight of the main body. I had tried it out, by attaching the 4 legs I rendered to their appropriate spots, and I found that the legs were able to withstand the weight, but only for a short time. So I took some clay from the slop bucket, since it, and using my finger and a sculpting tool, spread it over the main week points on the legs which was primarily all the joints at the knee and ankle of the horse. I found that by using the slob bucket clay, who's consistency was that of wet cement, I could add thin layers of reinforced clay to my horse without needing to score and wet the horses legs, which could have weekend the legs further if I had. But this solution proved very effective and because of it I believe the legs came out beautifully. Second, the next biggest challenge I ran into was how to drape the clay over the native girls body in a way that would give the impression of flowing cloth. My first idea that I went with, that thankfully ended up working out was to take a piece of left over clay from some slab, wet it thoroughly and roll it out as thin as possible. I would then take the thin panel and cut it down to size so that it would fall from above the girls hip to just above her ankles. I would then wrap the clay araound her waist and using my finger push in to the clay pannel to create the ruffles in the clay. My first attempt I found that the clay was too wet and the pannel I cut was not enough to cover the area I had wanted. So when I went to make the cloth folding detial the clay ripped, and the pannel didn't reach all the way around the girls waist. So, when I went back the second time, I cut a pannel larger than what I thought I would need, and I made sure that it was a little dryer than the pannel before. I was able to successfully do the cloth folds this time wich I feel came out great.
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Unit 4 - Projects
Unit 5 & 6 - Projects
What to include in your Reflection:
what inspired you?
What clay did you use and why?
What challenges did you face?
what did you find worked?